Saturday, December 21, 2013

What A Week

Saying that I'm happy it's finally Christmas vacation couldn't be more of an understatement.  After a very trying week, I'm finally done teaching and eager to begin travelling once again for my two-week break!

Angsty high school students, problems with the bank and a general lack of empathy from anyone I went to looking for help made this week one to remember, but unfortunately not for good reasons!

...to be an English Teaching Assistant in Forbach!!
I had the difficult task of trying to keep classes of students who were all too eager for school vacation to start under control - if you all could see what goes on in French classrooms, you'd be amazed.  I thought that my bad experiences at the Université de Paris III two years ago were just a fluke, thinking I had been put in classes with rowdy kids who misbehaved all through the lesson and couldn't care less what the teacher was saying.  Now, I can confidently say that behavior like this (general animosity, talking over others, throwing things during class) is omnipresent in all French classrooms, regardless of the kids' age or grade.  Every day here is an adventure: the second I turn my back to write something on the board, I brace myself for the worst.  I've been hit in the head with a flying pencil case, told I was ugly when I asked someone 3 times to spit out his gum, and am generally just disrespected by a vast majority of my students...and it's driving me crazy!!!  When I look back on all of these incidents, I can generally laugh it off, but simply cannot imagine what American teachers would do if they were transplanted into a classroom of animals here in France!

No, I didn't make this...someone else in the world just happens to share my same sentiments!
Thankfully, I'm not the only teaching assistant I know who's facing these same problems - in fact, every teaching assistant I talk to is having the same issues. Daily frustration in the classroom compounded with weekly bureaucratic hassles are really becoming a pain.  For instance, La Sécu, the French Social Security office, has been sending me nasty letters requesting a copy of my paystub from October...since the end of October...and as of this past Thursday (over halfway through the month of December), I had still yet to receive it.  Every time I would go to ask about it, I'd just get brushed off and told that things here just take a little extra time - if we're talking about a mid-afternoon wine break taking extra time, I'm all for it, but when important things just seem to get ignored time and time again, I really start to get annoyed.

[Side note: my paystub finally appeared on Friday! One more thing to cross off my bureaucratic to-do list!]

To top it all off, I happened to notice a mysterious 120€ charge on my debit card early Thursday morning...hello hackers! So I had the pleasure of going to the bank to try to straighten out the matter and getting stuck with an uptight banker who told me that in all his years of banking, he'd never heard of such a thing...was I sure I hadn't forgotten I'd gone out to lunch that day and spent a lot of money without realizing it?? 

"BNP Paribas: The bank for a changing world"...one which has apparently never heard of hacking!
Back at home, I know these problems can usually be corrected within minutes, as I had a similar problem a few years ago that was taken care of over the phone in under 5 minutes. Not in France! After being laughed at by the banker, I got to trudge through the pouring rain to the police station where I sat in the waiting room for 45 minutes (coffee break apparently takes precedence over customer service! "Things take time here," remember?) before I got to explain my whole story once again to a policier while he typed up a report for me. I was the second person before noon that day with the same hacked bank card problem, yet the man at the bank had never, ever heard of such an occurrence...Back to the bank I went with my 12-page report, only to be told that they'd have to launch an investigation to try to figure out who took my money, and if they could figure out who it was, maybe I'd get my money back, but it'd take at least two to four months! All this would be stressful enough back home, never mind trying to sort all this out here in a second language…

To top it all off, I had to cancel my French debit card and go without it for a few days until I get my new one in the mail sometime early next week. Conveniently, I leave for Christmas break in Geneva & Germany on Sunday, so I won't get my card back/have access to my account (where my month's salary was just deposited yesterday) until January 6th when I return. What a nightmare!!

[Second side note: Yesterday morning, the mystery charge was strangely deleted from my account, and my balance was restored to normal...so much for that taking 4 months, but at least I got my money back!]

The Swiss Flag
But, on a happy note, it is officially Christmas vacation now! I leave early Sunday morning on a train bound for Geneva (the land of fondue and world-famous Swiss chocolates!), where I'll meet up with Eric for a Christmas adventure on the scenic banks of Lake Geneva. The day after Christmas, I'm heading up to Germany to spend the rest of my break at my roommate Meike's house with her and her family (with the prospect of a ski trip to the Black Forest included!).  I'm very much looking forward to getting away from Forbach for a couple weeks and doing some more exploring, and by the time I get back, I'll be halfway through my stint as a foreign language assistant - hallelujah! Although the second half of my time here will be more exciting, as I'll have a good number of visitors coming and a few fun adventures up my sleeve.  

So, as we say in France, Joyeux Noël et Bonne Année! Here's hoping that 2014 is a fresh start to my last 4 months in Forbach!  

Thursday, December 12, 2013

Strasbourg & Les Marchés de Noël

Christmas cookies at the Strasbourg market
Always eager to immerse ourselves in Christmas cheer, Meike and I took a mid-week trip to the city of Strasbourg, the self-proclaimed "Capital of Christmas."  Home to France's oldest marché de Noël, the
Christkindelsmärik (Market of the Child Jesus), Strasbourg's Christmas markets are a festive holiday tradition begun all the way back in 1570 (2013 marks its 443th year!).  The city is situated about 2 hours south of Forbach and we had been banking on spending a weekend there to enjoy the festivities...apparently everyone else in the area had the same idea! All the hotels in the area were booked for every weekend of December - unless we felt like coughing up half of our monthly salary to stay in a ritzy place - so instead we opted to arrive in the city on a Tuesday night so we could spend all day Wednesday (our day off) wandering the town.

Strasbourg is the capital of the Alsace region of Eastern France, as well as the country's 9th largest city
We didn't arrive until nearly 9pm, a full hour after the markets close for the day, but we wanted to take advantage of the bright moonlit night to explore the city and admire all of the Christmas lights and decorations - we sure weren't disappointed!  

Strasbourg's giant sapin de Noël at Place Kléber
An illuminated model of the city sits below the tree
A modern take on the traditional manger scene: chainsaw-carved statues
The awe-inspiring Gothic cathédrale de Strasbourg
Basically, the entire city looked like a giant version of Bright Nights
Spectacle son et lumière: animations light up Place Kléber with light and sound

After being thoroughly chilled to the bone thanks to our late-night stroll in the sub-zero weather, we headed back to the hotel for the night, eager to see what the city had to offer by daylight...

La Petite France, a section of Strasbourg filled with half-timber houses sitting along the canals of the River Ill
Strasbourg is actually like a giant fairy-tale village, as its streets are lined with half-timber houses, all sporting vibrantly colored shutters and really giving the city a medieval feel.  Add about a million Christmas lights to that and you've got yourself the perfect kitschy Christmas paradise.

As is typical, I couldn't pass up a peek inside the city's cathedral - one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture still standing today.  Soaring an impressive 466 feet into the heavens, it was actually the world's tallest building for 277 years (from 1647-1874) and today stands as the world's sixth tallest church.  That's quite impressive considering the building was begun in 1015 (in a time of rudimentary tools but obviously extremely precise architectural calculations), standing as a testament to the power of faith, perseverance and mind-boggling craftsmanship.  It's hard to put it all into perspective when computer programs today could spit out a blueprint for this edifice without a problem, but when you take a minute to really think about it, it's actually really impressive that people were even capable of creating such beautiful works of art like this 1000 years ago with such basic tools.

The cathedral's amazingly detailed facade
Radiant stained glass windows illuminate the church's interior
The cathedral's astronomical clock, very impressive to watch all its parts whirring around
The cathedral towers over one of Strasbourg's eleven marchés de Noël, serving as an impressive backdrop for the dozens of vendors peddling their wares in the square below.  What can you find at the Christmas markets, you ask? A better question is what can't you find there...

Artisans tempt those strolling through the markets with hand-crafted ornaments, figures for the Nativity scene, fine Alsatian lace, candles, Santa hats...you name it, you can probably find it there! 

And then there's the food. Cheap, delicious, made with local ingredients, and cooked to order while you wait. 

My delicious lunch: sauerkraut and spaetzle mixed with bacon, onions, cheese and a white wine sauce, topped off with two bratwursts
Hungry for lunch? How about some local choucroute (grilled sausages garnished with a heaping portion of barrel-cured sauerkraut)? Cheese-covered pretzels? Freshly-shucked oysters with a squeeze of lemon? What about some deep-fried frogs' legs? Pizza? Maybe even a tarte flambée smothered in crème fraîche and topped with all the bacon, cheese and onions you could dream of... 

Quite possibly the World's Largest Pretzel - all for only 3€!
Thirsty? Grab a mug of vin chaud, France's famous mulled wine - you can get it in red or white. Christmas beer is popular here too, thanks to the region's German influence. Or if you don't feel like stumbling home from the markets, try a glass of hot spiced orange juice sweetened with a touch of honey.

One of the many vin chaud vendors with it huge kettles of simmering wine
What about dessert? Crêpes, deep fried beignets filled with Nutella, hot waffles topped with whipped cream, Alsatian nougat, Christmas cookies (of both the French and German varieties), chocolate-dipped pretzels...is your mouth watering yet?

1/3 liter of hot wine for 3€, quite the bargain!
The food portion of les marchés de Noël is a double-edged sword: everything's pretty cheap so you don't feel bad trying something...and then the next thing that catches your eye...and the next. Two hours and twenty pounds later you're rolling yourself back to your hotel wondering where your 20€ went...but it's totally worth it!

The Christmas market at Place de la Cathédrale
You'd think we would have had our fill of Christmas cheer after our shopping/eating extravaganza in Strasbourg, but no! Meike and I headed up to Metz along with one of her friends who was visiting to see what was going on during the Christmas season there...but unfortunately there wasn't much!  In any case, we enjoyed another day of shopping (and eating), and I finally got my Christmas shopping finished up.

In other news: we decorated our little Christmas tree (with popcorn garland and a batch of those amazing smelling homemade cinnamon ornaments) and Santa delivered me a box of presents from home! I couldn't have been more excited to open the box and find my stocking from home as well as some pint-sized presents to put under the tree. All that's left is to wait 2 more weeks to open them...the countdown continues... 

Our little sapin de Noël and some presents from home!

Wednesday, November 27, 2013

Luxembourg, Land of Many Bridges

The Luxembourgish Flag
Feeling a little bored with Forbach and yearning to further explore our little corner of the globe, my roommate Meike and I ventured off to spend the weekend in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.  


Landlocked between France, Belgium and Germany, Luxembourg is one of the world's smallest sovereign states, covering an area just shy of 1000 square miles. (Along with Belgium and the Netherlands, Luxembourg makes up Europe's Benelux region.)  Its capital, Luxembourg City (where we stayed), is about 120 kilometers from Forbach and takes just under 2 hours to reach by train.  Run by a constitutional monarchy under the Grand Duke, the country is the world's last remaining grand duchy.


While the country itself may be small, it is quite a diverse place.   Due to its central location, Luxembourg has been controlled by many world powers throughout the centuries, serving as a Roman fortress, Frankish kingdom, and Spanish bastion, just to name a few.  Consequently, the nation is a melting pot for many cultures and is also officially trilingual, with Luxembourgish, French and German as national languages - although everyone there speaks English just fine too!

The Alzette River, encircling the Grund (Lower City)
Upon exiting the train station in Luxembourg, we could not believe how cold it was! It was definitely at least ten degrees colder here than in Forbach - I was kicking myself for not bringing a heavier scarf or gloves! I also hadn't known that the city is composed of two plateaus and a deep valley in between them, through which the wind certainly whips.  Needless to say my first souvenir purchase was a thick pair of fuzzy gloves!

A memorial statue to Duchess Charlotte
We didn't have much of an agenda for our weekend besides visiting a few museums, but when we arrived on Saturday, we learned that it was opening day for the Marchés de Noël, the traditional German-inspired Christmas markets that pop up every year.  This was a nice surprise, as the markets have lots of delicious fresh-cooked food to offer at prices that won't break the bank, helping to keep costs down and make for a relatively inexpensive weekend stay.

Christmas food at the markets with a German/Luxembourgish flair
We did splurge on one meal - a delicious tarte flambée covered with bacon, onions, potatoes and various Alpine cheeses...miam miam!
We stumbled upon the city's cathedral and took advantage of a free organ concert - as well as a much needed break from the cold weather! The church was filled with gorgeously carved columns and vibrant stained glass windows, as well as a pipe organ that could literally knock your socks off - quite a pleasure to behold. 
Inside the cathedral
Beautiful stained glass windows adorn the walls behind the altar
Venturing back outside into the cold, we took a stroll by the Royal Palace and continued along the remnants of the city's old fortress walls, making our way down into the Grund (Lower City) to the Museum of Natural History - free with a student ID (even with expired ones, apparently!).  While it didn't hold a candle to similar museums in New York and DC, the eclectic collection of taxidermied wildlife, fossils, and even live stick-bug exhibits gave us a reason to escape the howling wind for an hour or so!

The Royal Palace
Walking along the old fortress walls
Houses along the Alzette River in the Grund (Lower City)
Meike and I spent the evening at the city's various Christmas markets which definitely put me in the holiday spirit! As you wander among the little log cabins selling locally-produced cheese and sausage, hand-crafted ornaments, thick sweaters made from the finest Luxembourgish wool, and anything else you might imagine, you can join throngs of people crowded around bonfires to warm up as you drink a glass of vin chaud (hot mulled wine), munch on some spaetzle with cheese and locally-sourced bacon...and listen to The Jackson 5 singing American Christmas tunes which are blasted from multiple speakers in every square. Quite the experience!
Meike near one of the more festive vin chaud vendors
La Grande Roue - most big cities have a Ferris wheel during the Christmas season
The next day, we decided to check out the Musée Draï Eechelen ("Museum of the Three Acorns" in Luxembourgish) which showcases the history of the city's fortresses throughout the millenia.  As I mentioned earlier, the city is spread across two plateaus, a deep valley, some forests, a river...the list goes on. According to our map, the fortress/museum appeared to be pretty close to the historic city center that we'd been exploring the day before, so we figured it'd be no big deal to walk over to the fort. 

Gorgeous views from our stroll along the city's defensive walls
Had someone informed me I'd have to shimmy down the twisting path from the upper city to the valley, follow a winding road along the river, go on a hike through the woods up a steep/muddy path and cross multiple sketchy bridges spanning vast crevasses in the forest, I might have thought twice about heading all the way over there...our 2D map failed to mention the vast elevation changes and woodland strolls! It was another chilly day, so at least our hike helped warm us up and gave us a chance to get some fresh forest air.

Luxembourg, home of modern highway bridges...
...ancient viaducts (now used for trains), and every other sort of bridge imaginable!
In any case, when we finally made it out of the woods and up to the museum, we were treated to an amazing view of the city! You're able to walk through the maze of old defensive walls, moats and tunnels leading to the main fortress where the museum is located inside the old blockhouse, the heavily fortified structure from which defenders could fire at their enemies.

We made it! Standing atop the fortress walls with a view of the city behind me
The museum was free for students (seriously, hold on to your old/expired college IDs and try to use them wherever possible, they can save you so much money!) and had an impressive collection of cannons, guns, swords, armor and even the city guillotine - its shining blade hanging precariously above all those walking below.

One of the three acorn-shaped towers belonging to the Museum
Meike and I had worked up quite an appetite after our early-morning wilderness excursion, so retracing our steps, we made it back to the Upper City on the other side of the valley, deciding to swing by the Christmas markets one more time to grab some lunch...and more hot wine of course! 

The Grund as seen from atop the city walls
Vin chaud - it even came in a festive boot-shaped mug!
I also made a delicious culinary discovery during our trip: Lebkuchen! These mouth-watering delicacies are spice cakes half covered in dark chocolate, half sugar glazed, and typical of German-influenced Christmas markets found in Eastern France and other countries sharing a border with Germany. (I was excited to find them in the supermarket here in Forbach upon my return to France.) Once again, my quest to be adventurous and try any local food encountered on my travels pays off!  And speaking of food, Thanksgiving's tomorrow...I'm whipping up a feast for my fellow language teaching assistants who are German and British, we'll see what they think of Turkey and pumpkin pie!

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Carte de Séjour: Check!

Last week, I had to make a trip up to Metz to pay OFII (L’Office Français de l’Immigration et de l’Intégration, the French Bureau of Immigration and Integration) a visit in order to finalize my visa.  But of course, since this is France and they love bureaucracy here, it wasn't just as simple as that.

When you apply for a French visa, you have to begin the process of registering with OFII as well - you fill out a form with all your passport & visa info and then bring it with you to France.  After you arrive in France, you need to fill out the second part of the form which lists your French address, and then you mail it in to the authorities.  Whenever they get around to it, the government will schedule you a medical visit at the nearest OFII office, and then it's up to you to drop everything and show up when they say so.  Sometimes it happens that the OFII visits get scheduled when you have to work, or when you're visiting a foreign land on vacation - but that doesn't matter to the government, because if you fail to show up for your appointments, you essentially become an illegal resident of France.  


Thankfully, my appointment got scheduled on a Wednesday (one of my days off!), which alleviated a lot of stress for me - no need to rearrange my schedule!  But still, getting to Metz for my 8:30am appointment meant hopping on a train at 6:35am and making the hour-long trek up to Metz, arriving only to learn that the one bus I needed to catch had just pulled away from the station...

The immigration visit has two parts: first, you go to the radiology suite at a hospital to get a chest x-ray, and then you go to the OFII office for the rest of your medical exam.  My x-ray was scheduled for 8:30am, meaning that I only had one shot to catch the bus to the hospital before I'd have to walk all the way there.  And as finding the one bus stop I needed among the rush-hour crowds gathered around the 10 other tramway/bus stops that arrive in front of the train station took longer than anticipated...I watched the C11 bus roll right past me - not a great way to start my already stressful morning!

Thankfully, I had planned ahead and printed out a map and some Google directions in case I got stuck walking to the hospital.  They sure came in handy when I found myself running down the sidewalk next to the bus, hoping I'd be able to keep up with it until it came to the next stop...and of course I had no such luck! Out came my map, and I began an arduous 3 kilometer speed-walk to the hospital. Did I mention it was raining? And I now only had 35 minutes to make it there on time? 

With cramped up legs, toting my messenger bag filled with all sorts of visa paperwork, sweaty and holding an umbrella, I must have been quite the hot mess when I bumbled into the radiology clinic at 8:25am - with 5 minutes to spare, no less!  I was pleasantly surprised to find 9 other English teaching assistants there as well, so we were able to chat about our anxieties together.  

I had heard horror stories about the x-ray portion of the day: the general idea was that you're led into an exam room, told to strip from the waist up, given nothing to cover yourself up with (i.e. hospital gown) and then led topless down a long hallway filled with various passersby to the room where the x-ray machines are - not quite my idea of a good time!  Thankfully, this was false information; you were brought into a little dressing room, removed your clothes and then quickly stepped into an adjoining room with no one else but a nurse to have the x-ray done. So much less stressful than anticipated!  X-ray in hand, I left the hospital with one of the other teaching assistants and we took the bus back downtown for our next appointment, scheduled for 10:00.  

Tada!
I relished the 12 minute bus ride back to the train station, grateful that I didn't have to trudge through the rain again! We arrived with plenty of time to spare, so we had time to grab a hot chocolate and a delicious pastry at a cute little salon de thé before heading across the street to the OFII building.  The OFII visit was comprised of 3 different interviews: one with a doctor who checks your chest x-ray for TB, asks if you smoke and listens to your heart; the next with a nurse who takes your height and weight and checks your eyesight, and the third with someone who prints your carte de séjour (French residency permit) and affixes it in your passport.  My visa alone is only good for 3 months without the carte de séjour, so in order to stay in France for the length of my 8-month contract, the OFII visit is mandatory.

Short of mailing in my Social Security paperwork in order to obtain a French social security number and be able take advantage of the country's wonderful socialist health care system, I'm pretty much finished with French bureaucratic matters (I hope!).  It only took 2 months and 72 Euro ($98) to get my birth certificate translated...ugh. The hoops you have to jump through here to get anything accomplished are ridiculous, but I'm hoping that from here on out I'm home free!

Centre Pompidou - Metz
My day in Metz wasn't a complete headache, though.  I got to check out the Centre Pompidou - Metz, a branch of the Pompidou museum of modern art in Paris, for free since I'm under 26 (why can't the US give amazing benefits to its young citizens as well?!), and then I met up with my roommate for a day of shopping in the city.  And to top it all off, I now have an awesome chest x-ray to add to my collection of random souvenirs acquired in Europe...

Marcel Duchamp's "Bicycle Wheel" (1913)

Thursday, November 7, 2013

La Toussaint - Part 2


Next stop: Spain? Not quite.

Have you ever heard people talk about how amazing the city of Narbonne, France is? 

Wait...you haven't? Can't say I'm entirely surprised! Kasey, Eric and I got to take a little side trip here on our way down to Spain and were less than impressed...

Backtrack to Tuesday the 22nd. The three of us arrive at the Toulouse train station about 40 minutes before our train was scheduled to leave - apparently this wasn't quite enough time.  I stood guard over everyone's bags while Eric and Kasey went to go get their tickets printed (along with about 30 other people who were ahead of them), and thanks to a variety of factors, but mostly the fact that the man at the counter printed the wrong ticket for Eric, we stood at the platform and waved as our train pulled out of the station.

So, we all got to get back in line and explain what just happened to a different ticket agent - he was extremely patient and after about 40 minutes we all had refunds for the portions of our voyage to Spain that we hadn't used yet and got new tickets to get us there later that day.  Originally, we were slated to take a train from Toulouse to Narbonne, have a 20 minute layover, then take a train from Narbonne to Figures Vilafant in Spain, and finally take a regional train from Figures to Girona. Well, we ended up with the same itinerary, but our 20 minute stop in Narbonne was now stretched out to 6 hours!! [Here's my map again so you can see where this was all taking place!]

Narbonne: Never Again!
Trying to be optimistic, we decided it was ok because we'd be able to see yet another city during our vacation - we were going to be stuck there anyways, so why not properly check out the city?  So, weighed down with all of our luggage, that's exactly what we did.

The fifth train of our trip got us to Narbonne.  After killing an hour and a half at a restaurant with some paninis and sangria (and listening to the bartender hack up a lung all throughout our lunch), we trudged down what appeared to be the main road towards the center of town.  Thankfully we stumbled upon the Cathedral of St. Just and St. Pasteur which conveniently had a nice little park just outside its cloister where we sat in the cool, blustery weather for another couple hours.  Eventually venturing inside the cloister and further inside the church itself, I was entertained for a little while at least, admiring the beautiful architecture all the while.

If it had been a nice sunny day and we had been able to scale a neighboring building to get a good view of the cathedral, this would have been it! (But it wasn't, so we didn't...)

Begun in 1272, this church is famous for never being completed - only the choir (the area immediately surrounding the altar) has been built.  You can imagine how large and impressive the entire thing would have been had it actually been completed.
The side of the cathedral with the unfinished transept

Inside the cloister
The Wall of Thanks inside the cathedral
At least there were pretty windows to look at!
The church is celebrated for its grand organ, an impressive sight to behold
Just in time for Halloween?
We ate some snacks in the little park by the church and then once again hefted our bags all the way back to the train station - bound and determined not to miss our train, we got there an hour and a half before we were scheduled to leave. We were sure in for a treat when we spent the next hour sitting in the world's most depressing, run-down waiting room you could ever imagine! Needless to say, when the train to Spain finally pulled up, we were the first ones to get on.

The building we got to stare at while we spent hours waiting in the park by the church - at least it was pretty!
An hour later we arrived at Figures Vilafant and hopped on our sixth train to Girona, which thankfully was only a mere 13 minute ride away.  Exhausted and hungry, we checked into our hostel and quickly found a traditional Catalunyan restaurant. (Catalunya is a very distinct region of northern Spain with its own language and Barcelona as its capitol. There's a strong movement here for Catalunya to secede from Spain and become its own autonomous entity, but that's another story...)

Both Kasey and Eric speak basic Spanish, but that was of little help to us at this restaurant where the menu was entirely in Catalan - similar to Spanish but essentially a whole different animal.  Thankfully, our waiter was super friendly and literally explained the entire menu to us in English.  After settling on a few traditional dishes and a pitcher of sangria, we were finally able to have a relaxing end to a stressful day!

Part of my Catalunyan dinner: a hearty, spicy beef and vegetable stew
Ever eager to travel, we decided to get up early again the next morning and take a day trip to Barcelona.  Located only 100 kilometers from Girona (about 60 miles) and costing only 15 euros round-trip, we figured if we'd already come this far, it was worth visiting.  So back to the train station we went, boarding the train once again for a 90 minute journey south through the picturesque Spanish countryside.

Hola Barcelona! The view from Parc Güell
Upon our arrival, we quickly sought out the tourism office in order to get our hands on a map of the city so we could cram as many sights into our day trip as possible.  We lucked out weather-wise during our entire two-week trip, but in Barcelona the thermometer topped out close to 80 with a bit of humidity - perfect for soaking up some sun!

Plaça de Catalunya

Not to far from the tourism office at Plaça de Catalunya are Las Ramblas, a tree-lined pedestrian mall stretching over a kilometer in length. Vendors selling everything from daily newspapers, birds, flowers, souvenirs, food and art punctuate the strip, and after a few minutes of walking we came to Barcelona's famous covered market, La Boqueria.  This extremely crowded and lively venue is host to a wide variety of food products - butchers, fishmongers, fruit and vegetable stands, fresh cheese and eggs, deli meats...you name it, they have it! It's a great place to find a quick, delicious, and cheap lunch. After a quick pita filled with roasted veggies and a glass of fresh-squeezed mango & coconut juice (best thing ever!), I was re-invigorated and ready to do some more exploring!

Produce vendors peddling their wares - including delicious juice!
Artfully displayed figs
Seafood anyone? Caught fresh daily from the Mediterranean Sea
Ice-cold mango coconut juice: tastiest purchase ever!
Art history lovers such as myself will know that Barcelona is quite the cultural hub - Spanish architect Antoni Gaudí has left a big mark on the city.  Next up: a trip to Parc Güell, the tropical park built along the side of El Carmel hill.  
Antoni Gaudí, master Art Nouveau sculptor and architect
Covering 42 acres with architectural elements by Gaudí, the ensemble is considered to be one of Europe's largest architectural structures and is listed as part of the "Works of Gaudí" UNESCO World Heritage Sites. 
Tropical foliage along El Carmel hill
The park was constructed between 1900 and 1914, focusing around a long, mosaic-covered serpentine bench on the park's main terrace, evoking the form of a sea monster. Interestingly enough, it is rumored that Gaudí got a model to sit in wet clay and used the form of her butt to create the sinuous, super comfortable form of his benches...to each his own?

Enjoying the sunshine on Gaudi's benches
The park's famous entrance, with a view of the Mediterranean in the background
Parc Güell's entrance is flanked by two "gingerbread houses" that help to set the whimsical tone for the garden. Gaudí even sculpted the walls which support the terrace in the form of palm trees with specific niches created among them for birds to build nests in. You can't help but notice the shrill squawk and green flashes of the parrots who live in the park as they fly from palm tree to palm tree!

Palm trees and parrots!
We climbed up to the park's highest point to get an amazing view of the city, but in order to do that we had to scale a rather frightening rock formation.  The steps rotated around the outside of this cylindrical monument and couldn't have been more than 8 inches wide, with no railing and imminent broken legs awaiting you if you happened to slip off the side.  The 6 foot square platform at the top with 20 tourists crammed together (again, with no railing) was even more sketchy, but the views were worth it! (Refer to the panorama near the beginning of the Barcelona section of this post!) After snapping a few quick photos we hastily made our way back down to the ground.

View from the top!
Just a little windy up here!
Our last major stop before heading back to Girona for the night was the infamous Sagrada Familia basilica.  Another masterpiece by Gaudí, construction on the church began in 1882, combining traditional Gothic architecture with the newly emerging curvilinear forms of the Art Nouveau style.  Only a quarter of the project was realized during Gaudí's lifetime, and as its construction relies solely on private donations, progress has been anything but quick.  When rebutting criticism about the painfully slow headway being made on the building, Gaudí supposedly remarked "My client [God] is not in a hurry."  Recent estimates propose a date of completion somewhere around the year 2036...

Sagrada Familia
Three façades for the church were originally planned: the Nativity, the Passion, and the Glory (which has yet to be realized). The oldest side of the church is the one sheltering the Nativity, whose construction has been the most directly influenced by the hand of Gaudí, while the Passion side is more recent and had to be based off of the few remnants of plans left behind by the architect which survived the Spanish Civil War and attacks by Catalunyan anarchists.  The Passion façade is the most famous and is distinguished by its melted wedding cake appearance. Newer additions to the church are easily spotted due to their fresher, brighter, non-weathered appearance, as opposed to the darker polluted-looking stone of the older constructions.

The Nativity façade
The Passion Façade, ever under construction
Details from the Passion Façade
Eric, Kasey and I were content with just viewing the exterior of the church - the 21.50€ entrance fee seemed a little steep, especially to see a building that's not even done being built yet. That being said, I can appreciate that the admission fees go towards the continued construction of the church, but I think I'll save that expense for a future visit. Here's a peek at what the ceiling inside looks like...

Designed by Gaudi, the pillars are meant to echo tree trunks reaching high up to the forest canopy
Aside from a little souvenir shopping, that pretty much wrapped up our day trip to Barcelona.  Although it was a last-minute decision to go, I'm really happy we went and would love to make a return visit someday as the city has lots more to offer - the Olympic Stadium and Village, numerous museums, a beach along the Mediterranean...

One of Girona's many narrow cobblestone streets
After our train back to Girona, we were in search of a traditional Spanish tapas restaurant for dinner and asked the receptionist at our hostel for suggestions.  She referred us to her favorite place, El Didal ("The Thimble," in Catalan), tucked away on a cobblestone street behind the city's cathedral.  We scored a great table outside on the terrace and enjoyed a pitcher of sangria and quite the spread of tapas, which are small plates of appetizers to share, including patatas bravas (fried potato cubes with spicy aioli sauce), calamari fresh from the Mediterranean with a drizzle of lemon juice, puff pastries bursting with scallops and asparagus, biscuits topped with slices of chorizo, the list goes on...


It was all going so well until a bizarre encounter with a woman we thought was our waitress landed us inside the restaurant-turned-sex-shop, where we found ourselves being painted with erotic chocolate sauce, covered in edible fairy dust, tickled with feathers and being playfully whipped...in front of other diners...while they were trying to enjoy their dinner. Needless to say it was an awkward and bizarre, yet hilarious encounter and will live in infamy as one of our unforgettable memories of Spain!

La catedral de Girona
Once again, we had amazing weather for our last day in Girona - we took full advantage of the warm, sunny day to explore the city a little better before our evening train back to France.  Situated at the confluence of 4 rivers - the Ter, Onyar, Galligants and Güell - Girona is home to the gorgeous cases de l'Onyar, "river houses," reminding me slightly of Florence. Their warm, typically Spanish colors give the city a vibrant hue that contrasts brilliantly against the blue sky and its reflection off the rivers.

River houses over the Onyar
More cases and the city's Cathedral
Girona's old city is surrounded by fortifications originally erected in the 1st century BC by the Romans to protect the settlement from invaders. Rebuilt again in the 14th century, the walls and guard towers still stand today, and visitors can walk along the top to get some excellent panoramic views of Girona - so of course we did just that!

The Great Wall of...Girona?
Speaking of panoramic views...

Looking into the city of Girona
Looking away from the city into the Spanish countryside
The views from the fortifications are simply breath-taking.  Clear blue skies stretch above the city and back to the Pyrenees as far as the eye can see. And when looking over the back side of the wall, the viewer is afforded an unrestricted view of the wild, cactus-covered countryside.

Soaking up the sunshine high atop a look-out tower
So many cacti!
"The three best friends that anyone could have..."
Pretty flowers!
Eric and Kasey on the Wall
Omnipresent Catalunyan flags display strong regional pride
Next stop: Nîmes! Later that night we boarded our umpteenth train en route back to France.  Eric had invited us to stay at his place in Nîmes, located in southern France, as our travels into Spain had brought us down that way anyways.  A settlement known as Nemausus during Roman times, Nîmes was founded by Julius Caesar as a colony for retired veterans - though archaeological studies have shown that communities had already formed in the area beginning around 4000 BC.  After serving as a soldier for 15 years during Caesar's military campaigns along the Nile in Egypt, he gave his veterans parcels of land to cultivate here beside the Via Domitia, a Roman road linking Italy and Spain.  

The seal of Nîmes depicts a crocodile chained to a palm tree, representative of the Roman Emperor Augustus' victory over Marc Antony and Cleopatra's fleet on the Nile in 31 BC
I was fortunate enough to have made a brief visit to Nîmes back in 2008 during a vacation through France, visiting the nearby Pont du Gard aqueduct and quickly passing through the city, but I was elated to have a second chance to discover the city more deeply, as I had closely studied its cultural and historical facets in various art history classes during college. It always feels good to put what you learned to good use!

At Pont du Gard (2008)
Eric lives in a house with a woman and her 12 year-old son, and upon arriving at their home I was very excited to discover that they had a cat! Although it might sound strange at first, sometimes I miss my pets more than people at home - at least you can call/text/Skype with the people you miss, but try as I might to train my cats to be tech-savvy, I don't really have a way to connect with them when I'm thousands of miles from home! Needless to say, the cat at Eric's house (who doesn't have a name) got lots of attention from me during our stay!

My cute little furry friend at Eric's
Equally exciting, we had a gourmet lunch of moules-frites (mussels & fries) with some top-notch scenery - les Arènes de Nîmes! I developed a love for mussels during my travels through France, and when they're steamed in a mix of white wine, cream, onions and garlic, you can't really go wrong. Top it all off with a heaping plate of salty french fries and you've got yourself a delicious meal.  

Kasey and I, eager to dig in to our steaming pots of mussels
Mussels so fresh from the sea we found seashells and seaweed in our pots
After stuffing ourselves with seafood, we headed across the street to take a tour of les Arènes.  Constructed by the Romans in 70 AD, the amphitheater encloses an elliptical space 435 feet long by 330 feet wide, capable of holding a staggering 16,300 spectators. And while much larger Roman arenas still stand, the one here in Nîmes is considered to be the best preserved of them all. In Roman times the space hosted everything from gladiatorial battles to public executions, serving as one of the city's major entertainment venues. The arena is still used today, although the modern spectacles held here (concerts, bullfights, and other public events) are slightly less gruesome.

Les Arènes de Nîmes
Inside the amphitheater
We were on a Roman ruins kick, so we headed over to Les Jardins de la Fontaine to check out La Tour Magne, the sole remains of the ancient Augustan fortifications that once surrounded Nîmes. What a view from the top!

La Tour Magne
Hello Nîmes!
Also inside the Jardins de la Fontaine are remnants of the mysterious Roman Temple of Diana.  Not much is known about its function or the origin of its name, though some say it once served as the Roman town library. Regardless, it is quite well-preserved and features intricate architectural carvings.
  
Le Temple de Diane
We went over to Eric's friend's apartment that night, and for some reason the three of us serendipitously changed into matching outfits.  Normally, we would never leave the house looking this ridiculous, but we thought it was pretty funny so we just went with it - and got a few strange looks and comments from passersby along the way!

"Are you all going to a color party?"
The last thing left on my list of "Things to See in Nîmes" was La Maison Carrée (literally "The Square House").  Constructed in 16 BC under Agrippa and dedicated to his two sons (who became the adopted sons of the Emperor Augustus), this building draws on the temples of Apollo and Mars Ultor located in Rome and is the best-preserved temple found anywhere in the territory of the former Roman Empire. The Maison Carrée has served many functions throughout the centuries, acting as a stable, church, consular house and even an apartment.  Today, visitors can enter the structure's small interior space (formerly home to a shrine) to view a 3D film about the history of Nîmes.

La Maison Carrée
The deep front porch, or pronaos, is nearly a third the length of the building, and the intricately sculpted Corinthian columns bring a regal air to the structure. Newly restored, the Maison Carrée's bright and gleaming stonework certainly steals the spotlight. 

Above the columns, holes for pegs which held bronze letters forming the building's inscription are visible. Deciphered in 1758, the inscription is said to have read (in translation) "To Gaius Caesar, son of Augustus, Consul; To Lucius Caesar, son of Augustus, Consul designate; to the Princes of Youth."
Amazing sculpture has withstood the tests of time

It was time to say good-bye to Nîmes and head back to Paris to spend our last couple day of vacation in the City of Light.  After all of our adventures in new places, it was nice to be back "at home" in a city with which you're very familiar and don't need to rely on a map to find your way around.  Eric and I got to spend a couple nights with Kasey in her apartment, and then headed back to our former host family's house to stay there for our last two nights.  

Hôtel de Ville in Paris
[At the risk of sounding like a Parisian snob, I'll say that I didn't do very much that was noteworthy in Paris...ate falafel at my favorite restaurant, went to a movie, strolled down the Champs-Elysées, went to a couple parks, walked around by the Eiffel Tower, the usual...] Although Eric and I did go to the Parc aux Buttes Chaumont, a peaceful park in the 19th arrondissement which I had never been to before, and I played tour guide for one of Kasey's friends from home who was visiting one day while she was at work.

L'Arc de Triomphe
As much as I love to travel, after living out of a suitcase for 13 days and taking a total of 14 trains (never mind the countless journeys on various metros and buses), I was exhausted and couldn't have been happier to return to the sleepy little town of Forbach and finally sleep in my own bed again! I got back on Halloween, and tired as I was, I still mustered up enough energy to carve the pumpkin I had bought before vacation - I couldn't totally skip over Halloween!

Cimitière de Montparnasse right before Halloween & La Toussaint (All Saint's Day)
Happy Halloween! 

My next vacation's not until Christmastime, but I can't wait to find out where my travels will take me then!